Wildlife photography can be a very rewarding pastime , it can also be immensely frustrating with It seeming at times that nothing is going right, just remember the golden rule “Always put you subject first”.

In effect cameras and lenses are just tools that enable us to do the job, we all have our own preferences, but generally speaking if you are on a limited budget, and lets face it who isn’t , spending the greater part on a better quality lens will be the better option.

With more and more people having access to equipment capable of recording a moving image, filming wildlife is becoming ever popular. Modern video cameras are capable of excellent results, and the high end digital models allow near professional quality. This fact coupled to cheap running costs and excellent low light performance make filming wildlife more possible for all. However, 16mm film with its better dynamic range, superior slow motion and robustness will continue to be at the top end- at a price.

For help and advice on wildlife photography there are some excellent books available, and most clubs have at least one experienced member. So go out and enjoy, but remember no image however good is worth your subjects well being.

“ALWAYS PUT YOUR SUBJECT FIRST”….
Above, are a few of our hides, used from left to right? At the nests of, Barn Owl, Mistle Thrush, and Sparrow Hawk. Improvisation is the name of the game, which is where Jim scores heavily, usually managing to construct a hide of some sort….
If you have a particular question on wildlife photography please feel free to contact me.
From a personal perspective, equipment has to be versatile. As I operate in several different mediums, 35mm stills, video, and 16mm film for example, lenses in particular have to be easily adaptable. It is for this reason that I choose not to use auto focus, despite the advantages.

As far as 35mm still cameras are concerned, my personal requirements are, durability, facility to interchange the focusing screens, a flash sync speed of 1/250sec, top shutter speed of at least 1/2000sec, TTL flash metering, a/p auto as well as manual metering, and a detachable motor drive for when I choose to wind on by hand. The ability to operate if required without batteries is also desirable; my Nikon FM3a’s fully meet these requirements.

The largest lens I use is a 600mm, but by far my most preferred focal length is 400mm, of aperture 3.5 or f4. I used a 400 2.8 for a while, and although optically superb, it was far to heavy, coupled with the fact that I never used it wide open, because of the narrow depth of field, there was little point in keeping it. If I need that extra little bit of speed I simply use faster film. Provia 100F, is excellent, pushed one or two stops produces results that can enlarge to almost any size.

The faster 300 F2.8s can be useful, especially when used in conjunction with high quality extenders; however these large front element lenses can cause problems, particularly with some Birds of Prey and Owls.

As far as Medium Format is concerned, I have tried most makes, but still prefer the old Mamiya C330 TLRs. despite the obvious drawbacks. Being reliable and very quiet, they are excellent for some hide work, especially Owl Nests.

As stated earlier, lenses have to be easily adaptable, being as they will be used upon different camera bodies, for this reason I still maintain a full set of Tamron LD SP lenses, in particular 90, 180, 300, 400, 200-500. These lenses coupled with other custom-made adapters, maintain the versatility needed.

For 16mm, Arriflex SR and Éclair ACL Mk2, cameras are used. These cameras are silent running, important with wildlife work. The Éclair, in particular when fitted with 200ft magazines, is a light and portable unit. For slow motion work, either an Éclair or a Mitchell high-speed camera capable of up to 500 frames per second is employed.

As for video, Older broadcast systems can now be picked up, for very reasonable prices second-hand, and cameras that cost thousands new can be purchased for the same prices as top end consumer gear. However be warned, should they require attention, you will need broadcast facilities and spare parts, to repair and service them. This can be very costly. For those just taking up wildlife work, a top end DV camcorder, such as the Canon XL1, might be a better option.

For tight spaces and such I also employ various mini cams, both film and video, including infrared sensitive units used for shy nocturnal subjects. Older cameras such as the Panasonic F10 and F15, seen in the free ads for very little money, can be easily converted for infrared use by any repair shop. Simply ask them to remove the blue filter covering the CCD, this is grouped together with a clear filter. DO NOT HAVE THE CLEAR FILTER REMOVED; if you do, you will loose infinity focus. If used with filtered spotlights, a useable night vision camera, with interchangeable lenses can be cheaply obtained. Small Sony camcorders with night shot can also be fun, again if used with extra filtered lights.

As you can see equipment is largely a matter of personal taste, all modern cameras are capable of recording good results. So its all down to you..